May 21, 2012

Sweet spring projects

IMG_0283

Stash-busting shawl. I call it the St Ives shawl because the colours remind me of that part of Cornwall (which I really love and miss). The frill is made from hand-dyed yarn – black bean and onion! It’s a simple pattern based on Abyssal: you can find it free online in French or English here.

IMG_0263

Some stripy hand-dyed socks that can be knit toe-up or top-down. If you grew up in the ‘70s or ‘80s in the UK and watched Bagpuss as a child these might remind you of a certain lovable old cloth cat…Pattern coming soon!

IMG_0275

I love these fingerless mitts so much I’ve decided to call them Smittens. So quick and easy to knit, really comforting to wear. Pattern coming soon!

Brilliant Brazilwood

Today I’ve been playing around with Eastern Brazilwood (Caesalpinia sappan or Sappanwood), which comes all ground up into sawdust ready to dye my yarn. The tree is native to Southeast Asia and belongs to the same genus as Brazilwood (C. echinata). These plants contain the red dye molecule brazilin, and were big business in the past before artificial chemical dyes were invented. The country Brazil was actually named after the dye tree, and not the other way around.

 

I started out last night with 100g (about 4oz) of the stuff in the bottom of a thin stocking to make a kind of tea bag and stop the sawdust turning my dye bath into sludge. Apparently you can fish this out afterwards and dry and re-use the dyestuff. I simmered it with water and an antacid tablet for a couple of hours (it likes hard water and these provide chalk) then left it in the basement overnight. Then in the morning in went my yarn – several different types and weights – all pre-mordanted with alum to make the dye molecules stick to the yarn rather than just washing down the drain.

This dye is really interesting to play around with. It gave deep royal reds through to a kind of pale burgundy and quite intense corals. I had heard that altering the pH as you rinse it after dyeing has an effect so I added two teaspoons of bicarbonate of soda to one of the dips. The colour did shift right away from the coral range to something more of an intense purple-red. But the results weren’t particularly apparent once I’d rinsed it out and dried it.

 

The photos give the impression it is more pink than it actually appears – I think the light was quite blue coming through my window in the early morning. I’ve got a photo that also incudes a bunch of other natural dyed yarns that may give a better idea. Sappan dye is behind the more coral/intense reds, the strong cerise colour is from cochineal.

Scouring, anyone?

Before you start to mordant or dye your yarn, you should scour it. This is basically a detergent wash. As with many dyeing related topics, people seem to have a variety of ways of doing this. Based on the results is looks as though each of them is effective, but you may want to do your own trials, or stick with the technique suggested by your supplier.

Here are three different suggested methods:

Jenny Dean

Jenny is the author of The Craft of Natural Dyeing (1994) and Wild Colour (1999). She suggests scouring yarn by soaking it overnight in a liquid detergent solution made with cool or lukewarm water. Then just gently squeeze out the excess.

Maiwa

This supplier suggests a ratio of 6 gallons (24litres) of hot water per pound of fiber, with add 1 tsp of Orvus Paste soap (which Maiwa also supplies) added. You add yarn, heat gently for about an hour without agitating the yarn too much. Allow the whole lot to cool gradually, then rinse the yarn in warm water.

Maiwa - see artisan supplies

Jackie Crook

Jackie is the author of Natural Dyeing (2007). This book suggests adding a few squirts of washing up liquid to a large bowl of boiling water, and immersing the wool in it. It’s important to get the wool underwater, but again, no agitation. The wool stays in for 15 minutes. Then you rinse it in water the same temperature as the bowl it just came from (so still fairly hot after 15 minutes, but not boiling.)

 

I have just scoured a batch of wool that I’m about to mordant using Jenny Dean’s method, and I know Victoria is on the case with the orvus paste soap. If you have any of your own experiences you’d like to share with what works best, please leave us a comment!

New pattern

I admit we’ve been a bit quiet.

It’s not because nothing has been happening – it’s because of work going on in the background designing and testing patterns to share!

Please check out our patterns page – the first one featured is the Miracle Beach Beret. I have been wearing this a LOT. It goes with everything, and is knitted in DK or sport weight yarn in a simple slip stitch pattern giving a lightweight beret perfect for the transition into Spring (or Autumn for our Southern Hemisphere friends).

Click to buy!

Also don’t forget the chunky free scarf pattern - really simple and fast to make.

Let us know how you get on – with downloading or knitting.

Pin It

Alchemy

Take some of these:

Hibiscus flowers

Add a little water:

 

Wait, for the magic to happen, cook with yarn…

A beautiful short film

Featuring my home town in the UK. Wonderful photography by Stephen Banks.