May 21, 2012

Logwood

As a newbie at natural dye experimentation, I find it exciting that I never quite know what colour I’m going to get. Logwood is the perfect example. Logwood, otherwise known as Haematoxylum campechianum…(yeah, I can’t pronounce that either). It is a flowering tree native to Southern Mexico and the bark has been used for hundreds of years to produce a dye that can range from black to pale lilac. The wood chips are a reddish-brown colour. and when I soaked them overnight…the colour of the dye bath was also a kind of rust. I added Peartree Supersoft merino 4ply and also Pollika organic Merino, 2ply, both mordanted with alum. I left the yarn in the bath at around 80C for an hour. As the yarn soaked up the dye, a lovely deep purple appeared. Interestingly, the dye bath also changed to purple. Maybe the heat had something to do with that. Seemed like there was a lot of dye-bath left so I did another small skein in the same bath to see what colour I would get. This time I got a paler shade of purple.

I rinsed the yarn over and over and stained everything including my hands (wear gloves). I found that some people increase the mordant with Logwood so that the dye will hold a little better. I think this is good advice. I will still give the yarn an extra rinse.


So far I have only done small quantities of yarn in each dye bath and I have not added any alkaline or acid to the baths or mordants to alter the pH of the water (which can greatly effect the colours produced by some dyes, including Logwood). Right now I am curious to see the colours I get with my very own tap water. I am guessing it is quite a soft water…but next time I’ll try adding something else (e.g., bicarbonate of soda or a Tums) and see what I get.

I also tried dyeing with pomegranate. The rind of the pomegranate is used to create a dye and not the berries. I got a pleasant mustard colour which, when overdyed with cochineal, resulted in a rust colour. I read that pomegranate is often used as a mordent and is the yellow that you can add to other dyes to bring out greens and oranges. I’d like to get a green if I can. And of course, my indigo kit is waiting to be tried out. That is my next dyeing project. The colours are  not quite true here. The reds are not so coral looking. The left is pomegranate, the middle piece was originally dyed with black bean, then pomegranate, then cochineal. The right skein is pomegranate and cochineal.

I have managed to get quite a few lovely colours from the latest dye batches, with only a little effort. Now to actually make something!

Brilliant Brazilwood

Today I’ve been playing around with Eastern Brazilwood (Caesalpinia sappan or Sappanwood), which comes all ground up into sawdust ready to dye my yarn. The tree is native to Southeast Asia and belongs to the same genus as Brazilwood (C. echinata). These plants contain the red dye molecule brazilin, and were big business in the past before artificial chemical dyes were invented. The country Brazil was actually named after the dye tree, and not the other way around.

 

I started out last night with 100g (about 4oz) of the stuff in the bottom of a thin stocking to make a kind of tea bag and stop the sawdust turning my dye bath into sludge. Apparently you can fish this out afterwards and dry and re-use the dyestuff. I simmered it with water and an antacid tablet for a couple of hours (it likes hard water and these provide chalk) then left it in the basement overnight. Then in the morning in went my yarn – several different types and weights – all pre-mordanted with alum to make the dye molecules stick to the yarn rather than just washing down the drain.

This dye is really interesting to play around with. It gave deep royal reds through to a kind of pale burgundy and quite intense corals. I had heard that altering the pH as you rinse it after dyeing has an effect so I added two teaspoons of bicarbonate of soda to one of the dips. The colour did shift right away from the coral range to something more of an intense purple-red. But the results weren’t particularly apparent once I’d rinsed it out and dried it.

 

The photos give the impression it is more pink than it actually appears – I think the light was quite blue coming through my window in the early morning. I’ve got a photo that also incudes a bunch of other natural dyed yarns that may give a better idea. Sappan dye is behind the more coral/intense reds, the strong cerise colour is from cochineal.

Scouring, anyone?

Before you start to mordant or dye your yarn, you should scour it. This is basically a detergent wash. As with many dyeing related topics, people seem to have a variety of ways of doing this. Based on the results is looks as though each of them is effective, but you may want to do your own trials, or stick with the technique suggested by your supplier.

Here are three different suggested methods:

Jenny Dean

Jenny is the author of The Craft of Natural Dyeing (1994) and Wild Colour (1999). She suggests scouring yarn by soaking it overnight in a liquid detergent solution made with cool or lukewarm water. Then just gently squeeze out the excess.

Maiwa

This supplier suggests a ratio of 6 gallons (24litres) of hot water per pound of fiber, with add 1 tsp of Orvus Paste soap (which Maiwa also supplies) added. You add yarn, heat gently for about an hour without agitating the yarn too much. Allow the whole lot to cool gradually, then rinse the yarn in warm water.

Maiwa - see artisan supplies

Jackie Crook

Jackie is the author of Natural Dyeing (2007). This book suggests adding a few squirts of washing up liquid to a large bowl of boiling water, and immersing the wool in it. It’s important to get the wool underwater, but again, no agitation. The wool stays in for 15 minutes. Then you rinse it in water the same temperature as the bowl it just came from (so still fairly hot after 15 minutes, but not boiling.)

 

I have just scoured a batch of wool that I’m about to mordant using Jenny Dean’s method, and I know Victoria is on the case with the orvus paste soap. If you have any of your own experiences you’d like to share with what works best, please leave us a comment!

Dyeing with bugs…

We recently began dyeing our own yarn; small experimental forays into the world of colour and dye. Helen came up with the idea of using natural, hand dyed yarns (using our own fair hands) and creating simple knitting kits that we could put together and sell. Great idea! So we’ve set about experimenting with various natural dyes inc., onion skin, black beans, hibiscus, turmeric, red cabbage. People have been using natural dyes all over the world since, well,  forever. There’s a wealth of information out there and limitless possibilities.

For my first trial at home I used onion skin (we’d previously used this and were happy with the results), turmeric, black beans and hibiscus tea. The process was fun; I had all four burners going in my small kitchen; everywhere was steamed up as the yarn batches did their thing. I noted it all down like a mad scientist in a messy laboratory. However, in the end I was not happy with the colours that I had made. They seemed drab to me and lacking the vibrancy that I wanted. I was disappointed rather than disheartened, but I simply cannot work with something if I don’t love it. So back to the drawing board.

Black bean...drab

There’s a fabulous dye supply place at Granville Island called Maiwa. It occured to me, after conversations with Helen, that I should try some of their dyes; dyes that have been tried and tested around the world for years and years. Maiwa sell a range of natural dyes and so off I went.

First trial: Cochineal. I remember at once at school when  someone said; “Do you know what you’re eating?”
Me: “Erm…no?”
Them: “BEETLES!!! EWWWWWW!!!”.
Apparently, they are scale insects (no, I don’t know what that means either). If you’re interested here’s the Wiki link.  I still thought, “Ewwwww!” as I poured out a heaped teaspoon of dried beetles into the pestle and mortar, ready to grind into a powder.
What is fascinating is that as you grind them a beautiful dark fuchsia colour instantly appears and that is the dye.
I followed the dye instructions that I picked up from the Maiwa store; also available on their website.
The results were fantastic! I apologise for my pics; my house is quite dark…even on a sunny day (and we haven’t seen any of thse in a while). The first skein came out a beautiful dark fuchsia and the second skein (using the same dye bath) came out a lovely pink.
Cochineal doesn’t mess around. Fabulous! So now to do something with it. Stayed tuned, I am working on a new pattern.  Next: Pomegranate, Log-wood, Madder, and Indigo. There are also lots of combinations of over dyeing to try. Looking forward to getting back to the kitchen laboratory. I just have to work around this family and their need to eat; it really gets in the way of my activities!

New pattern

I admit we’ve been a bit quiet.

It’s not because nothing has been happening – it’s because of work going on in the background designing and testing patterns to share!

Please check out our patterns page – the first one featured is the Miracle Beach Beret. I have been wearing this a LOT. It goes with everything, and is knitted in DK or sport weight yarn in a simple slip stitch pattern giving a lightweight beret perfect for the transition into Spring (or Autumn for our Southern Hemisphere friends).

Click to buy!

Also don’t forget the chunky free scarf pattern - really simple and fast to make.

Let us know how you get on – with downloading or knitting.

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Alchemy

Take some of these:

Hibiscus flowers

Add a little water:

 

Wait, for the magic to happen, cook with yarn…

A beautiful short film

Featuring my home town in the UK. Wonderful photography by Stephen Banks.

Dye studio…

Well, it could be the new tagline for my basement. Why not?

If you are on Pinterest, click the yarn pic below:

Now we’re cooking!

 

It’s well below zero degrees (C) outside here in Canada so spending time indoors is a pretty attractive option. Aside from shovelling snow and having  fun with sleds, things have been going on in my kitchen…

Experiments that involve yarn, cabbages and onions. The preliminary results are above! (Onions win, hands down.)

I plan to post more details about how you can do this yourself once I’ve done some further tests with my friend and fellow yarn-addict, Victoria. We are having a lot of fun with this, and with our plans for the yarn once we have dyed it. There’s a lot to learn and many other things to try. We’re also finding out more about our local resources and networks of experienced people.

We are bursting with ideas about how to develop this online Stitches Studio space, too. Can’t wait!

Resources:

I’ve been getting inspiration from Harvesting Color: Making Your Own Natural Dyes, which is really worth a read if you are interested in either the process or the history and environmental practices of natural dyeing in North America.

 

Great minds think alike?

Have you ever had what seemed like an original idea…
Only to find that very shortly afterwards, someone else came up with something SPOOKILY close to what you had envisioned?

I’ve just had that experience with these socks:

The colour, the broderie stitch, maybe not the wavy up and down patterns.
But still. Weird.

I’m still going to make some soon to test my idea – but it no longer feels ‘experimental’. I hadn’t seen that particular lace stitch on a sock before. Now I know it’s ‘out there’. And I think it looks great, by the way!

There are lots of other fabulous designs at the Twist Collective website, too - don’t forget to check out their archive.